Week 18 - learning about the history of underwear

Knickers, pants, drawers, smalls, kegs, panties, undies, boxers, briefs, thongs and my childhood favourite, knick-knocks, a delightful array of words describing one that is quite dull sounding: underwear.   To me, the word underwear is rather prosaic and conjures an image of utility and functionality rather than sexuality and glamour.   

How has something so innocuous as a little pair of pants caused such an array of emotions over the years?  Outrage, lust, disgust, intrigue, passion, indifference, pride; underwear, in all its guises has provoked it all.

Underwear is ultimately something that no one but the wearer really sees as its hidden and yet it has changed so significantly with history both in its physical form and its role and what it represents.

Once, its function was purely health-related, something hygienic to cover intimate areas of the body.  Nowadays it still has that purpose but it has become much more about sex, something erotic, sexually charged and also highly controversial: some saying that certain types of women's underwear in particular, is incredibly degrading and demeaning, whereas others think it is an assertion of power and confidence.

Undressed: A brief History of Underwear has recently opened at the V+A.  The exhibition charts the history of underwear in terms of design and fashion from the 18th century for both men and women to the present day.  

What becomes apparent, certainly during the first half of the exhibition, is how peoples' perceptions and attitudes have changed so much towards body image and shape.  For example, in the 18th century women wore stays, the predecessor to corsets and were intended to keep a lady upright, forcing her into an elegant, graceful posture.  

Installation view of Undressed

(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Whereas the 19th century corsets that we know were created to pull in a lady's waist and give contrast to the huge frame and rear that their skirts gave, layered on top of a "caged" crinoline. In the late 19th century is was fashionable to show off the breasts and some women had bust extenders that were "for the person who is too thin or scant in chest development" but by the 1920's flapper girls wore bandeau lingerie to flatten their breasts.

Cage crinoline, the ‘Princess Louise Jupon Patent’
c. 1871
Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The word "lingerie" comes from the French word "linge", meaning linen.  19th century undergarments were only linen or cotton and to wash them they would have to be intensively laundered by being soaked, pounded, scrubbed in soap and hot water and then boiled, rinsed and starched.  The word lingerie, unlike underwear certainly doesn't evoke anything so mundane.  These days it elicits an image of something that is sexy, provocative and suggestive.

Installation view of Undressed
(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The beauty of underwear and fashion are so intimately linked.  Underwear shapes the body and provides a base-structure for fashionable clothes.  But, in the same vein, so many of these undergarments are structural: corsets, crinolines, bras have all been designed to lift, separate and exaggerate parts of the female body, in particular the boobs, bottom and hips.  There is that gendered silhouette that emphasis the sexual characteristics of a woman's body.

Although, male underwear can be designed to enhance the body.  In the exhibition is a pair of men's "Aussie Bum" pants with some "discreet" padding.  I have to say that the exhibition does try hard not to make the men feel inadequate (as it were) but the reality is women's underwear is so much more interesting, versatile and lets be honest, sexually appealing.

Advert for AussieBum underwear: Live Without Doubt (c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

The stunning, beautiful modern underwear is all reserved for the second half of the exhibition upstairs.  Here, not only do we see traditional sets from unique brands such as Rigby and Peller and La Perla but also the more playful, erotic and kinky pieces from brands such as Agent Provocateur, sponsor of the event.   It is up here where underwear really becomes a reflection of our identity, tastes, desires and fantasies.

Installation view of Undressed
(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

Installation view of Undressed
(c) Victoria and Albert Museum, London

There is a strange irony connected to sexy underwear.  I would say that most women who wear beautiful underwear are doing it for themselves and not for someone else.  I do find it odd that I feel a certain amount of allure and sexiness when I wear gorgeous underwear (must be matching) even though I see it for a matter of seconds in the day.  I think its the same feeling a woman has after getting a wax.  There is just something so titillating about it.

An obsession with clothing that barely anyone sees is perhaps frivolous and vain, and definitely costly but then again, for some its a complete necessity.  I can't tell you the repercussions if I went out into the world everyday without a bra.